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Welcome welcome to the results of my obsession of the last 3 months: the apron dress. There are some patterns out there that are similar, but I think you'll find mine is not only the most free version, but also the most detailed and customizable. Enjoy!
As this sewing pattern is *free but I do not have access to software which would allow me to draft it and make it printable, the pattern instructions below are a bit lengthy. As such, I've divided the post into sections. Use the table of contents at the bottom of the introduction to skip around. I wouldn't recommend skipping farther than the drafting instructions without actually starting to read.
As I've now sunk an inordinate amount of time into this pattern, I might as well add some more time and make videos. Full length video instructions on how to measure, how to draft the pattern, and how to construct the dress are incoming. Check back here and follow me on YouTube if you're interested!
A final note before we begin: a HUGE thank you to Fabric Wholesale Direct for sending me the fabric for version 6.0 of this dress! Their email to me for collaboration started me down the rabbit hole of this dress that had been banging about in my head for a while so THANK YOU. The fabric was provided to me at no cost for including a link to their website in this post.
Note on versions: The current published version is 6.5. Please note that at the time of writing, version 6.0 has been finished but version 6.5 has yet to be sewn, so some pictures may be missing but the construction notes and instructions are accurate. More pictures are incoming. This paragraph will be updated to let you know when changes are made.
Q: What materials do I need to make an apron dress?
A: To make an apron dress, you will need:
Fabric (see notes below for what types and how much fabric to purchase)
Interfacing for the waistband
Matching or contrasting thread
Pins and/or hem clips
Ruler(s) - quilting rulers are recommended if you have them
You will need to make perpendicular lines. If you don't have a ruler that will do this, find something you can trace to make perpendicular lines, like a hardcover book or piece of computer paper.
Pencil and paper for drafting the pattern
I use brown craft paper for my patterns which you can get online or at the hardware store. Any paper will do.
Tailor's chalk, fabric marker, or pencil
Iron and ironing board
Fabric scissors and/or rotary cutter with cutting mat
Hem gauge, optional
Hand sewing needle - a thimble is recommended
Point turner, optional
Q: How difficult is this dress?
A: This is not a beginner project (sorry, beginners). If you've never drafted a pattern before, this is a good place to start as the pattern is very forgiving. The construction isn't terribly advanced, however. I would overall call this an intermediate pattern, maybe a 3 out of 5 on the difficulty scale.
Q: How long does the apron dress take to make?
A: When making your first dress, you will need to dedicate time to first drafting your pattern pieces. Following the instructions, this takes about an hour. The actual cutting of fabric and dress construction took me about 9 hours for the blue dress shown in the pictures.
Q: Do I *really* have to pre-wash my fabric?
A: Yes. Stop whining. If you've picked something which frays like crazy, sew about 1/4 inch from the cut sides before washing so it doesn't unravel. Iron it before cutting.
Copyright Information
Copyright Information
This dress sewing pattern design is the intellectual property of Kat Zimmermann, Craftematics, LLC.
Q: Can I make and sell this dress?
A: If you are a small business of 5 employees or fewer, yes. However, you must note that the pattern belongs to Craftematics and link back to this page in the item listing and on the sales receipt OR, for brick and mortar stores, on the garment tag.
If your business has more than 5 employees, no, you may not make and sell this dress, even with appropriate attribution. You may, however, contact me if you are interested in producing this dress commercially. Please include as much detail as possible in your email.
Q: Can I draft this pattern and sell the finished paper pattern?
A: No. You may, however, contact me if you are interested in producing this dress pattern commercially. Please include as much detail as possible in your email.
Designing the Apron Dress
Designing the Apron Dress
The process - skippable if you just want to get to the tutorial, interesting if you want to know why things are they way they are.
The concept of an apron dress was first introduced to me on TikTok by @cccara. I loved the idea of an adjustable dress with little waste made from a recycled bedsheet. I also, being quite pregnant at the time, thought it looked comfortable and like it would maybe fit me for longer than 2 months. So I made the dress using my pregnancy measurements and a bedsheet from the 70s that had been sitting in my mother's linen closet for a few decades. It is quite comfortable, however, I have some things that I would change now I've worn it several times:
The pleating at the shoulders makes a weird bubble around my bust, causing gaps at the side.
Further, there's just not enough coverage under my arms, meaning my bra is pretty much always showing (based on @cccara's videos, this is less of a problem for more well-endowed folks).
The patch pockets bubble out because the skirt is so full, creating a bucket effect on the sides. My placement of the pockets could have been better as well.
I made the bodice front tie wrap around to tie in a bow in the back. Cute, but wildly uncomfortable when seated.
Still, I like my first apron dress and was enamored by the idea of something that would always be able to fit me. This line of thinking has been particularly poignant post-partum. My body may weigh the same, but it is not the same.
Fast forward to summer 2024. I finally had time to do some sewing and wanted to try making a split side skirt like those from The Stitchery which I first saw on YouTube. Loosely following one of her tutorials, I made my first split side skirt with sufficiently massive pockets. I made a lot of mistakes while sewing that skirt, chiefly that I let myself do math after 9pm and cut the waistbands too narrow. I still like the skirt a lot, but the narrow waistbands tend to ride up my back throughout the day. This is also the project where I realized interfacing on the waistbands is necessary to help keep everything in place and where I solidified the correct tie lengths.
I then happened upon the wrap pinafore from @tartan_tarlatan on Instagram in my scrolling and my brain got put back to apron dresses. I loved the neckline of her dresses and how the fabric she used drapes so beautifully.
Then I got an email from Fabric Wholesale Direct (linked above) about a potential collaboration. It was fate. I could see the linen version of the apron dress I wanted in my head so perfectly and this was the chance to make it. I started developing the pattern, using my split side skirt to help me "try on" the mocked up bodices. The development of the bodice went something like this:
Let's try a wider neckline. Nope, not like that.
These shoulder straps are literally falling off my body.
Why is there a huge bubble around the bust. Go away, bubble.
There is no way I'm getting out of this without using a dart, is there?
Fine, I'll use a stupid dart!
Oh, that worked. Well shoot, now I have to figure out the math of why this was the right measurement. I don't think telling people to figure out the right vibe when you pick up the fabric is going to cut it.
I was not prepared to learn how much my body has moved my cushioning around.
I think I got it!!!
Cue the muslin, version 5.5 of the pattern. For this version, I used another old bedsheet, one I absolutely wore the stuffing out of when I was a kid. Thin, light, comfy, impossible to find the right tension settings for (rude). I made a *lot of mistakes with this version, but ended up with a short list of changes to make for what I thought would be the final pattern:
Account for the waistband when drafting the bodice by raising the waistline up. I had to fix this in the muslin with a very large pin tuck.
Put the pockets on the skirt BACK not the skirt front. Also, just make them shaped like a hip pocket but don't try and do an actual hip pocket. I don't want to talk about the pockets and how they made me cry.
Drop the "turn" into the side down from the shoulder another inch. After a full day's wear, the fabric was digging into my underarm.
Enter the linen. Lightweight with a beautiful drape and in a color so blue I struggled to get it to show up on camera correctly, I was wholly unprepared to work with the handkerchief linen. Were I to use it again, I would use a glue stick on every edge cut on the bias to prevent accidental stretching. That said, it's supremely comfortable to wear and breathes like a dream which is important considering how quickly my body overheats. I made the changes to the pattern from version 5.5 to create version 6.0 which I made with the linen. After a few full days of wearing, I have two adjustments to make:
In dropping the turning point from the shoulder into the side of the bodice front, I've lost the coverage on my side which means I have to wear a real bra underneath (boo).
A construction error on the facing which slightly exposes the shoulder seams.
Both will be remedied in version 6.5, included below. I will likely add my thoughts on version 6.5 after it's finished and worn for a few days.
Notes for Your Dress
Notes for Your Dress
Fabric Choice
Fabric Choice
Really any fabric will work for this dress, though it's drafted with woven fabrics in mind. I do recommend choosing a fabric with a balance of both structure and draping. The structure is needed to keep the bodice shape while the draping is needed to help with the gathers in the skirt and general comfy-ness.
For reference, the version 5.5 dress shown in these photos (white with the floral print) was made using a bedsheet in a cotton-poly blend with what I believe is 100% cotton for the waistband and pockets (yellow fabric). The version 6.0 dress shown in the photos was made using Anya 3.7 oz Handkerchief Linen from Fabric Wholesale Direct in royal blue.
If the fabric you choose ends up being quite light (as both of mine did), allow me to recommend using a stabilizer for the double fold hems. You could use a wash-away fabric stabilizer, a strip of garment tape, or a plain glue stick. For the glue stick, warm it up with your iron by hitting it with some puffs of steam - do *not* press the glue stick to the iron - then gently dab onto the fabric's edge before folding over. I saw this on Instagram after it was too late to try it so please leave a comment if it worked well!
Fabric Amount
Fabric Amount
Regardless of your choice of fabric, you will need about 4 yards. We will be using the full fabric width as the width of each skirt panel, so fabric width will generally not affect how much fabric to purchase.
4 yards is based on the assumption that you will be able to fit the bodice and one pocket on a width of fabric. If your waist measurement is 50+ inches, you may need additional fabric. In this case, I recommend drafting your pattern before making your fabric purchase (or don't and buy an extra 1-2 yards to be safe).
Ease, AKA Why There Isn't Any
Ease, AKA Why There Isn't Any
Good news, everyone! If you make fully adjustable clothing, you don't need to account for horizontal ease!
There IS actually some small amount of ease in this dress for comfort, but it's vertical and it's only 1/2 inch on each piece of the bodice. This does add a total of 1 inch going over the shoulders which you can somewhat see in the pictures just above the waistband. You can choose to leave this out if you want a well-fitted bodice. Do so by simply using the width of your waistband for measurement b instead of subtracting the 1/2 inch.
Seam Allowance
Seam Allowance
In the drafting instructions below, I do specify 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch seam allowance throughout different areas of the pattern. This can be a tad confusing which is why the diagrams use dashed and dotted lines to make the difference more clear. The reason the side seams include a 3/4 inch seam allowance is because they are finished using a double fold hem. While you can absolutely do a double fold hem with 1/2 inch of fabric, I find it much easier to do 1/4 inch and then 1/2 inch folds.
Importantly, do *not* add seam allowance down your center lines! I accidentally did this on my first draft of version 6 and nearly ruined my fabric pieces!
Taking the Measurements
Taking the Measurements
Because we'll be drafting our own pattern, we need to take some measurements and assign them each to a variable. I've included a list below of what needs to be measured. We'll do the calculations in the drafting section, below.
You can access a spreadsheet which will calculate the additional measurements for you here
Measurements & Variables Reference List
Measurements & Variables Reference List
Each measurement is listed below, variable - measurement name.
w - waist circumference
l (lowercase L) - shoulder to waist going over the bust without conforming to the body
t - waist to waist going over the shoulder without conforming to the body
n - waist to nipple without conforming to the body
p - nipple to nipple
s - strap width
no variable - collar width
h - collar depth from top of shoulders
no variable - waistband width
no variable - skirt length
A few notes on the above:
A few measurements note "without conforming to the body." What I mean by that is do not press the measuring tape into your body contours, e.g. under the breasts, to get the measurement. Drape it over the body as fabric would naturally drape.
The last 5 measurements are more of a decision making process. For reference, the strap width in my pattern is 3 inches, the collar width is 6 inches, the collar depth is 5 inches, the waistband width is 2 inches, and the skirt lengths are 23 inches on the floral dress and 30 inches on the blue dress.
Drafting the Bodice Pattern
Drafting the Bodice Pattern
Got your measurements ready to go? Great!
Important notes to help you keep track of things
Lowercase letters are measurements, whether measured or calculated. These are in inches.
Uppercase letters with a * before them are points within the drafting geometry, e.g. *A or *B.
Back to back uppercase letters with a * before them is a length between points, e.g. *AB is the distance from *A to *B.
The asterisks are necessary so the pattern can be read by a screen reader and also because neither Google Sheets nor Sites will allow me to include geometric notation of a line above the line segment names.
This drafting is calculated in inches. It absolutely can be done in centimeters, however, there are several spots where inches are used, e.g. (a + 1), (f + 3). In these cases, be sure to convert the numbers to centimeters before completing the calculation.
Let's start with some calculations. Variables c, f, k, r, d, a, and b must all be calculated before moving on. You can reference the table embedded below or select the Open In a New Tab button in the top right of the embedded spreadsheet to access and make your own copy which will happily perform the calculations for you.
Remember your order of operations (PEMDAS) when doing the calculations. I also recommend writing down your measurements to the nearest 1/8th inch (the spreadsheet will do this for you).
Got your numbers? Let's go!
*Important Note: lowercase L looks like this, l. Uppercase I looks the same, so remember that points are marked with an *asterisk in the instructions. The spreadsheet uses a second font to make the notation more clear. Select the second tab, labeled Instructions (blue), to use the spreadsheet instead and to access a printable version of the instructions below.
Bodice Front
Bodice Front
Step 1
Draw rectangle ABCD where
*AB and *CD = f and
*AD and *BC = l.
Step 2
Mark the collar depth h inches down from *A along *AD.
Label this point *E.
Step 3
Draw a line starting at *E, perpendicular to *AD.
Mark point *F, a inches from *E along this line.
Step 4
Mark point *G, (a + 1) inches to the right of *A along *AB.
Connect *F and *G.
Step 5
Make a line perpendicular to *FG starting at *G.
Measure s inches along this line and mark point *H.
Step 6
Make a line perpendicular to *GH starting at *H.
Measure (s + 1) inches along this line and mark point *I.
Step 7
Extend *BC by d inches past *C to find point *J.
Make *DJ, the new waistline. Make *IJ.
Step 8
Find the bust point.
Measure n inches up from *D along *AD.
Measure p inches to the right, perpendicular to *AD.
Mark *K, the bust point.
Step 9
Draw a line from *K perpendicular to *IJ, extending a bit past *IJ.
Mark point *L where they intersect.
Step 10
From *L, measure d inches in both directions along *IJ. Mark points *M and *N.
Draw lines *KM and *KN to create the dart.
Step 11
Measure d inches along *KL from *L. Mark point *O.
Draw lines *MO and *MN.
Step 12
Make the armscye by connecting *I and *M with a smooth curve which dips down towards the waist.
Step 13
Measure b inches up from *D along *AD and mark point *P.
Measure b inches up from *J along *BJ and mark point *Q.
Make *PQ, the final waistline.
Mark point *R where *IJ and *PQ intersect.
Step 14
Define the drafted pattern piece by outlining in another color, making the outline extra bold, or erasing all other pattern lines. The drafted pattern without seam allowance is *EFGHIMONRPE.
Be sure to keep the dart lines *KM, *KN, and *KO, which will need to be copied onto your fabric later.
Label your pattern with "Apron Dress Bodice Front," the date, and the person's whose measurements were used. Add craftematics.com so you can find the construction instructions later.
Step 15
Add seam allowance:
Add 3/4 inches along *HIMONR, shown as a dotted line.
Add 1/2 inch along *RP and *EFGH, shown as dashed lines.
Label *EP as the fold line.
Add a grain line parallel to *EP, shown in red.
Step 16
Cut out final pattern with seam allowance.
Bodice Back
Bodice Back
Step 1
Draw rectangle ABCD where
*AB and *CD = k and
*AD and *BC = r.
Step 2
Mark the collar depth (h - 1) inches down from *A along *AD.
Label this point *E.
Step 3
Draw a line starting at *E, perpendicular to *AD.
Mark point *F, a inches from *E along this line.
Step 4
Mark point *G, (a + 1) inches to the right of *A along *AB.
Connect *F and *G.
Step 5
Make a line perpendicular to *FG starting at *G.
Measure s inches along this line and mark point *H.
Step 6
Make a line perpendicular to *GH starting at *H.
Measure (s + 1) inches along this line and mark point *I.
Make line *IC.
Step 7
Define the drafted pattern piece by outlining in another color, making the outline extra bold, or erasing all other pattern lines. The drafted pattern without seam allowance is *EFGHICD.
Label your pattern with "Apron Dress Bodice Back," the date, and the person's whose measurements were used. Add craftematics.com so you can find the construction instructions later.
Step 8
Add seam allowance:
Add 3/4 inches along *HIC, shown as a dotted line.
Add 1/2 inch along *CD and *EFGH, shown as dashed lines.
Label *ED as the fold line.
Add a grain line parallel to *ED, shown in red.
Step 9
Cut out final pattern with seam allowance.
Drafting the Additional Pattern Pieces
Drafting the Additional Pattern Pieces
Thought you were done? Just kidding - one more piece to draft and a few more to put on your cutting list.
The Ties
The Ties
You've already decided how wide your waistband will be. Add 1 inch for seam allowance. Now let's figure out the lengths.
For the back ties, add 5 inches to the circumference, c. Remember you will need to cut TWO back ties measuring the (waistband width + 1) by (c + 5).
For the front ties, take that length of the back ties and multiply by 2. Remember you will need to cut TWO front ties measuring (waistband width + 1) by (2*(back tie length)).
Facing
Facing
We will be using facing all around the collar and also across the top of the hip pocket curves. I prefer to do my facing with random scraps after cutting out the main pieces, but you can draft them as pattern pieces if you prefer. For each piece of facing:
Trace along the top line of the collar or pocket curve and a few inches down the shoulder and center line or pocket sides.
Measure 3 1/2 inches from the top line down into where the rest of the pattern piece would normally be. Connect your dots to finish the facing lines.
For the collar facing, mark the side which must be cut on the curve.
Add 1/2 inch seam allowance to the non-fold side of the collar facing and to both sides of the pocket facing.
Hip Pockets
Hip Pockets
If you already have a go-to hip pocket pattern, skip below to construction. I don't recommend using a pattern with a curve as we'll be attaching this as though it's a patch pocket, meaning we have to hem it first.
Step 1
Draw rectangle ABCD of sufficient size to carry everything you need. Add an inch in both directions for seam allowance.
The pockets shown in the sample measure 8 by 13 inches.
Step 2
Mark point *E along *AB such that *AE is the width of the person's hand, or thereabouts.
Step 3
Mark point *F along *AD such that *AF is a bit longer than *AE.
Step 4
Make a smooth curve from *E to *F.
Add 1/2 inch seam allowance along this curve, shown as a dashed line.
Add a grain line parallel to *AB, shown in red.
Add a reminder to cut 2 mirrored pieces.
Step 5
Cut out final pattern with seam allowance.
Construction: How to Make the Apron Dress
Construction: How to Make the Apron Dress
You've made it this far, congratulations! Time to actually cut out your pieces and assemble the dress.
Important note: All seams are 1/2 inch unless otherwise stated.
Step 0
Step 0
Press your fabric. I mean it. Stop complaining and go do it. No, you may not be excused.
Step 1
Step 1
Cut out all pieces. The cut list is as follows:
Main fabric:
Bodice front on fold - remember to transfer the dart markings!
Bodice front facing on fold
Bodice back on fold
Bodice back facing on fold
Skirt panels, cut 2 (cut skirt length by fabric width)
Pockets, cut 2 mirrored pieces
Pocket facing, cut 2 mirrored pieces (or not mirrored, no one will see it but you)
Back ties, cut 2 ((waistband width + 1) by (c + 5))
Length is calculated in the spreadsheet
Front ties, cut 2 [(waistband width + 1) by (2*(back tie length))]
Length is calculated in the spreadsheet
Interfacing (lengths calculated in the spreadsheet)
Front waistband interfacing [(waistband width + 1) by (2*f)]
Back waistband interfacing [(waistband width + 1) by (2*k)]
For more delicate fabrics, you may wish to press again after cutting.
Step 2 - Darts
Step 2 - Darts
On the bodice front, pin and stitch the bust darts with right sides together. A tip for stitching darts: start at the side edge and stitch towards the point. Do not backstitch at the point, but instead leave a tail and tie a few knots.
Press the darts down towards the waist. Baste in place.
Step 3 - Neckline Facing
Step 3 - Neckline Facing
On the bodice front, pin and stitch the bust darts with right sides together. A tip for stitching darts: start at the side edge and stitch towards the point. Do not backstitch at the point, but instead leave a tail and tie a few knots.
Press the darts down towards the waist. Baste in place.
Step 4 - Shoulder Seams
Step 4 - Shoulder Seams
With WRONG sides together and facing turned out, pin the bodice front and back along the should seams, including the facing. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam. Trim the seams, being careful not to nick the stitching. Turn and press. Stitch again with a 1/4 seam to finish the French seam. Press the finished seams towards the bodice back.
Step 5 - Finish the Neckline
Step 5 - Finish the Neckline
Create a double fold hem along the longer edge of the facing so that the hem will go towards the wrong side of the facing fabric. Use a 3/8 inch hem and then a 5/8 inch hem to create the folds. Press and pin the folds, then topstitch around.
Turn the facing back to the inside of the garment and press. Topstitch the neckline from the right side of the bodice.
Step 6 - Bodice Sides
Step 6 - Bodice Sides
Create a double fold hem down the sides of the bodice, beginning at the shoulder seams and working your way down to the waistlines. Use a 1/4 inch and then 1/2 inch hem. Press and pin the folds, then topstitch in place.
Step 7 - Pocket Facing
Step 7 - Pocket Facing
Finish the long edges of the pocket facings, either by using a serger or creating a rolled hem which can be done by hand with a regular machine foot or by using a rolled hem foot.
With right sides together, pin the facing to the curved edge of the pocket, matching the curves. Stitch. Trim the seam and clip the curve. Turn. Press. Topstitch.
Step 8 - Pocket Prep
Step 8 - Pocket Prep
Finish the pocket sides and bottom with a double fold hem using 1/4 inch then 1/4 inch folds. You may also choose to use a rolled hem here. The top edge need not be finished as it will be part of the waistband.
Step 9 - Waistband Prep
Step 9 - Waistband Prep
If you needed multiple strips to make the waistband, stitch them together with right sides facing. Remember you have two front and two back ties total.
Attach the interfacing to one of the waistband front ties and one of the waistband back ties, matching the centers.
Step 10 - Skirt Sides
Step 10 - Skirt Sides
Finish the sides of both skirt panels using double fold hems. You can use any size folds here, I prefer 3/8 inch then 5/8 inch. Press and pin the folds, then topstitch in place.
Step 11 - Pockets
Step 11 - Pockets
On the skirt BACK, pin the pockets into place such that the longest side of the pocket is against your hem for the skirt sides and the top edge of the pocket matches the top edge of the skirt panel. The curved opening of the pocket should be AWAY from the edge of the skirt.
Check you've pinned it correctly by holding the back panel up to your body. Baste across the top, then topstitch along the straight sides of the pockets.
Step 12 - Waistband Sandwich Back
Step 12 - Waistband Sandwich Back
Mark the centers of both back waistband ties. Place the back waistband tie with the interfacing right side up on your work space. Match the bodice back with right side down so the centers are aligned. Layer the remaining back waistband tie on top with right side facing down towards the bodice. Pin along the waistband to the edges of the bodice in both directions, being sure all 3 layers are aligned.
Continue to pin so that the waistband ties are matched up from end to end, including their short ends.
Stitch the waistband, beginning on one short edge, continuing all the way down one side and across the bodice, and finishing after the second short edge. One long side remains open. Clip the corners and turn right sides out.
From the front of the garment, press the waistband down and continue pressing so that the waistband is pressed end to end with clean corners and edges. Repeat the pressing on the inside of the bodice.
Step 13 - Waistband Sandwich Front
Step 13 - Waistband Sandwich Front
Repeat step 12 using the front waistband ties and bodice front.
Step 14 - Gathers
Step 14 - Gathers
Mark the centers of both skirt panels. With your largest machine stitch, sew gathers across the top of the skirt panels using 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch seam allowances to create two gathering lines. On the back panel, only stitch the gather lines between the pockets. On the front panel, leave 2-3 inches on either side of the panel ungathered.
Step 15 - Attach the Skirt Back
Step 15 - Attach the Skirt Back
Turn the non-interfaced back tie up towards the main bodice and pin out of the way. Place the front bodice waistband with the interfacing right side up on your workspace (interfacing side down), making sure you can still find the center mark on the band.
With right side down, match the skirt back center (has pockets) to the back waistband center and pin. Align the edges of the back skirt panel with the bodice edges and pin. Pin across the pocket tops so you can clearly see the area which needs to be gathered. Pull on the gathering lines to create the gathers and evenly distribute them across the remaining skirt back. Pin in place.
Stitch across the pinned seam. If you used the seam allowances described, there should be no need to remove the gathering lines. Do not trim this seam.
Step 16 - Attach the Skirt Front
Step 16 - Attach the Skirt Front
Prepare the skirt front and bodice front the same way as we did in step 15.
With right side down, match the skirt front center to the front waistband center and pin. Align the edges of the front skirt panel with the bodice edges MINUS 3 inches and pin. The bodice should now be wider than the skirt panel. The picture here will be updated as this is a change for version 6.5 to provide more coverage under the arm.
Pin the ungathered part of the skirt to the bodice. Pull on the gathering lines to create the gathers and evenly distribute them across the rest of the bodice. Pin. Stitch across. Do not trim this seam.
Step 17 - Back Inner Waistband
Step 17 - Back Inner Waistband
Remove the pins holding the back inner waistband out of the way. Press the waistband back down towards the skirt panel. Press the new skirt/waistband seam so it lays flat.
Starting in the center, fold the open edge of the inner (no interfacing) waistband tie under so that the folded edge aligns with the skirt/waistband seam. Continue this to the edges of the bodice, pinning in place as you go. Press the newly folded edge, being careful not to melt your pinheads.
Beyond the bodice, open up the tie, then measure and press in 1/2 inch of the bottom panel of the tie, starting at the bodice edge and going to the short end of the tie. Fold the tie closed again. Fold under the remaining tie edge so that the folded and pressed edges of the ties line up. Press and pin in place. Repeat on the other open end of the tie.
You should now have a fully finished waistband pressed and pinned into place. Do not stitch yet.
Step 18 - Front Inner Waistband
Step 18 - Front Inner Waistband
Repeat step 17 with the front waistband. The process is the same, but this takes longer because of the length of the ties.
Step 19 - Hand Basting
Step 19 - Hand Basting
On the inside of the bodice where you have pinned the waistband in place, hand baste the waistband to the skirt, taking care the stitches do not show through to the front. It's OK to use larger stitches here. Remove the pins as you go. Repeat with the other waistband.
Step 20 - Finish the Waistbands
Step 20 - Finish the Waistbands
With the right side of the garment facing up, topstitch all the way around the 4 sides of the waistband.
Note: if you want a nicer finish, you can instead blind stitch by hand from one end of the waistband ties all the way to the other and skip the top stitching.
Step 21 - Hem
Step 21 - Hem
Check the garment fit and make sure you still like the length. Hem the skirt panels using a double fold hem of 3/8 inch then 5/8 inch folds. Press the folds and pin. Topstitch.
Done! Put it on and do a twirl - you earned it!
Did you make the apron dress? I want to see! Share out your photos and tag me @craftematics on your favorite social media! You can follow me here on the blog by filling out the form at the bottom of the page and get lots of extra content between posts by following me on TikTok, Instagram, or Facebook!
Originally published September 13, 2024.
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