Corner to Corner Crochet Basics

Q: What do I need to work a C2C pattern?

A: Working a C2C crochet pattern uses the same materials as any other crochet pattern. You will need:

• Yarn of appropriate color and amount (check your pattern)

• A crochet hook to meet the given gauge OR that works well with the chosen yarn

• Tapestry needle

• Snips

• Stitch markers - optional, helpful for tracking rows and which side is increasing/decreasing

• A pattern (if you're following one)

What is Corner to Corner Crochet?

The fabric produced by C2C is quite different as a result of this change in technique. Where regular crochet can produce a variety of fabrics ranging from dense, close stitches to airy lacework, C2C always produces a fabric made up of these squares. Because each row is worked back and forth on the diagonal, the stiches which make up the squares are perpendicular to their neighbors. Because the double crochet squares latch onto the chains of their neighbor squares, there are significant gaps in this type of work - most similar to working a piece of all double crochets.

One final note on the differences - the edges of the fabric are significantly messier than traditional crochet methods. To clean it up, simply add your favorite border around the edges. Don't have a favorite border? You can borrow mine:

R1: Join yarn in the middle of an edge, ch 1, sc into same st and each st around, working a cluster of 3 sc at each corner, slst into first sc to finish round.

R2: Ch 2, dc into same st and each st around, working a cluster of 3 dc at each corner, slst into first dc to finish round.

R3: Ch 1, sc into same st and each st around, working a cluster of 3 dc at each corner, slst into first sc to finish round. Bind off.

Abbreviations (US terms):

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

slst - slip stitch

Row 2 - increasing - 2 squares

Ch 6, beginning with the 4th ch from hook, work 1 dc into each remaining ch, slst into top of ch 3 loop of the previous square to "anchor" the new square.

Ch 3, 3 dcs into the ch space, turn.

In this row, we've made two squares. The first being identical in technique to our starting square in row 1 plus an anchoring slip stitch and the second being our "regular square" which we'll repeat many many times.

Key Learnings

To review, there are 3 types of squares created using C2C methods:

Strictly speaking, every square is made up of a ch 3 loop and 3 dcs anchored to the neighboring square. The only real difference is how you begin the square - either with a ch 6 and working into the chain (increase), already being anchored from the previous square (regular square), or slip stitching your way over to create the new anchor (decreasing).

When to change colors

As with any kind of crochet, colorwork makes C2C more interesting. In the video tutorial below, you'll see me change colors on the anchoring slip stitches. If you want your color changes to be flawless, change colors on the second half of the last double crochet of the square previous.

Reading C2C Patterns

The only other thing to review before launching into your first pattern is how C2C patterns are written differently from regular crochet patterns. C2C patterns assume you already know how to C2C and understand that it's made up of a pattern of squares. These patterns can start in any corner (which may or may not be written into the pattern, depending) and give counts in the number of SQUARES instead of the number of stitches.

For example: a pattern with two colors, let's say blue and white. The row we'll look at has 5 white blocks, then 10 blue blocks, and then 3 more white blocks. This could be noted several ways:

• 5 white, 10 blue, 3 white

• 5 W, 10 B, 3 W

• 5 x W, 10 x B, 3 x W

There are other notations as well, but they'll typically follow a similar structure. 

Importantly, not all patterns which use C2C methods will be written - many patterns only provide the graphic chart! In this case, I find it most helpful to count and write down the number of each color before starting. Be sure to also pay attention to when one side of the pattern begins to decrease for rectangular panels! I like to mark this side with a stitch marker or some scrap yarn as a reminder.

Free C2C Patterns to Get Started

Each of the patterns below is worked from the bottom left corner to the upper right corner.

Gradient Baby Blanket

For this pattern, you will need 7 colors of yarn. Arrange the colors in the order that makes you happy. Conveniently, this works out very well for rainbows 🌈. This project is also a good stash buster. The blue gradient blanket in the photos was made entirely from scrap yarns left over from other projects.

Essentially, work 3 rows in each color before changing. Increase at both ends through row 38 - this will be the middle row of the second band of your starting color - then decrease at both ends until the blanket is finished.

For the sake of making the pattern easier to read, I'm using rainbow colors for the written pattern (and the chart).

To make this project, I used weight 4 yarns from my stash and an H (5mm) hook. Gauge is largely unimportant - each square measures about 1 inch by 1 inch.

Key:

A - color A - shown in the photos as grey

B - color B - shown in the photos as aqua

Originally published October 7, 2022.